Shandwick Stone / Clach a' Charraidh

The Shandwick Stone, also known by its Gaelic name "Clach a' Charraidh," is an extraordinary example of Pictish artistry, standing tall as a Class II cross-slab that dates back to approximately AD 780. The stone was hewn from the cliffs of Shandwick Bay and was carefully transported to its current location atop a gentle hill with sweeping views of the bay. This imposing monument offers a remarkable glimpse into the past, measuring about 9 feet (2.7 meters) in height and 3 feet 3 inches (1.0 meters) in width.

Our visit to the Shandwick Stone

After our mini adventure on the Cromarty Ferry, we made our way past Nigg and onwards to Balintore. We found the Shandwick Stone in a field on our left side from a minor road just before New Street. Limited parking was available, with just a couple of spaces; luckily, no one else was there when we visited.

The site is accessed via a gate and then a long cobbled path to the enclosure that encapsulates the stone. Sadly, the enclosure is permanently locked, but you can arrange closer viewings by contacting the trustees (01862 893798 / 01862 832525).

 

 

 

Despite being locked, the enclosure allows views of all angles of the stone by walking the circular path around it. The Shandwick Stone reminded me of a stone closer to home - Sueno's Stone in Forres - which also has a glass enclosure to protect it.

The East Face of the Shandwick Stone

The eastern face of the Shandwick Stone, which gazes out toward the sea, is adorned with a Christian cross intricately formed by two rows of raised bosses. Surrounding this cross are figures that likely represent angels, hovering protectively above creatures that may be lions. A scene beneath the left angel is particularly interesting, where a boar appears to trample a human figure—an enigmatic image that invites various interpretations.

The remainder of this face is covered in elaborate interlace patterns, with serpents weaving through the design. This motif echoes the intricate artistry found in contemporary illuminated manuscripts from the monasteries of Iona and Lindisfarne. The similarities in design with the nearby Hilton of Cadboll cross-slab suggest the possibility of a local monastery where skilled artisans created these themed slabs. Some scholars even theorize that the craftsmen from Easter Ross contributed to the iconic crosses of St John and St Oran on Iona.

The West Face of the Shandwick Stone

Turning to the stone's landward, or western, face, one finds a striking array of Pictish symbols and scenes meticulously divided into eight distinct panels. The largest of these panels features finely detailed 'triskeles,' a motif consisting of three interconnected spirals. The central panel is a vibrant depiction of Pictish life, depicting mythical beasts, birds, and human figures. Other panels showcase traditional Pictish symbols, such as the double-disc, alongside complex interwoven patterns. A dynamic hunting scene unfolds across the stone, complete with horsemen, a hunter on foot, and a crouching archer aiming his bow at a stag. Notably, two bulls face each other in the center, while two formidable warriors with shields and swords are depicted on the left.

 

Religious and Pictish Imagery

Despite the wear and tear inflicted by centuries of exposure to the elements, the Shandwick Stone remains an awe-inspiring artefact. Archaeologists are left to ponder whether the orientation of the stone—its religious imagery facing the sea and its secular side facing inland—was a deliberate choice or a mere coincidence. The unadorned sides of the stone add to its unique character, as it is uncommon for such stones to lack decoration on all surfaces.

The juxtaposition of new and old beliefs makes the Shandwick Stone particularly compelling. Carved during a period when the Picts were transitioning to Christianity, the stone embodies the coexistence of Christian symbols with the Picts' enduring pagan traditions. This blending of cultural elements is masterfully captured in the stone's carvings.

The earliest recorded mention of the Shandwick Stone dates back to 1776. Unfortunately, around 1846, the stone was blown over, breaking into three pieces. The base section, likely left in the ground, has never been recovered. The two upper sections were later reassembled and placed on a modern base. In 1988, a restoration effort saw these sections encased in a large glass enclosure to shield them from further weathering. However, the very tip of the stone remains missing, and the top section is heavily worn.

The stone's name in Gaelic

The stone's Gaelic name, "Clach a' Charraidh," roughly translates to "Stone of the graves" or "Stone of the grave plots," a nod to the field's history as a burial ground after a cholera epidemic. This area was used as a cemetery until it fell out of use following the cholera outbreak in 1832 and was eventually ploughed over around 1885.

We left this impressive monolith and headed into Balintore to visit the Mermaid of the North.

FAQs on the Shandwick Stone

Is there disabled access at the Shandwick Stone?

Yes, the site is entirely wheelchair accessible. The path is cobblestones and goes around the entire perimeter of the enclosure.

Is it possible to get up close to the stone?

No, the enclosure is locked but can be accessed by arranged appointment with the Stones trustees - 01862 893798 / 01862 832525.

How old is the Shandwick stone?

The Shandwick Stone is believed to date back to approximately AD 780, making it around 1,240 years old.

Are there toilets at the Shandwick Stone?

No, there is just the enclosure for the stone and nothing else. Toilets can be found nearby in Balintore at the Seaboard Centre.

Are there other Pictish attractions nearby in Easter Ross?

Yes, there are a few other sites you can visit:

• The Hilton of Cadboll Stone - Found on the north side of Balintore, the Cadboll Stone is actually a replica, but it's still well worth a visit to see what these Pictish stones would have looked like when first carved.

• Nigg Old Church - Found to the west of the Shandwick Stone, Nigg Old Church has an incredible Pictish Cross slab.

• Tarbat Discovery Centre - Located much further north in Portmohmock, on the Tarbat Peninsula is Tarbat Discovery Centre. This fine museum is built within an old church and has a treasure trove of Pictish artefacts.

Video of the Shandwick Stone

Here is a short overview clip of the site:

Key information

• The Shandwick Stone is a large stone monolith with Pictish engravings on two of its faces.

• The stone is found a short distance from Balintore in Easter Ross.

• It's free to visit, but there is no access to the stone enclosure without a prior appointment.

• There are two parking spaces near the gated entrance.

• There are no toilets, but the Seaboard Centre in Balintore has public toilets.

Conclusion

The Shandwick Stone is more than just a relic of the Pictish era; it is a powerful symbol of Scotland's rich cultural tapestry and the complex interplay between old and new beliefs. Its carvings continue to intrigue and inspire, offering a rare glimpse into a time when the Picts were navigating the transition from pagan traditions to Christianity. As it silently watches over the land and sea, the stone reminds us of the enduring legacy of the Picts and the intricate artistry that has survived for over a millennium.

Whether viewed from afar or up close, the Shandwick Stone remains a testament to the skill, faith, and cultural identity of its creators—a legacy that continues to captivate all who visit this remarkable site.