Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

Written by Chris Thornton | 23rd of August 2024
Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

My wife and I have stayed at Grannies Heilan' Hame at Embo almost every year for the last twenty years! Across the water, we have always seen Tarbat Ness Lighthouse shining in the distance and thought it would be a nice day trip for the family.

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is one of over 200 lighthouses around Scotland's rugged coastline. Managed by the Northern Lighthouse Board, these beacons ensure safe navigation through dangerous waters. Amazingly, the lighthouse was built at the end of the geological fault of the Great Glen, where it meets the sea.

Our visit to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

With picnic in hand, we left our caravan at Grannies Heilan' Hame and headed to Tain and Portmohomock. We had our picnic in the Tarbat Discovery Centre car park.

Continuing northeast, we made the short trip to the lighthouse car park. Some single-track roads are here, so be prepared to give way to oncoming traffic if needed. The car park is fairly large and has plenty of space even at the busier times of the year (we visited in July).

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse
The car park.
 
Tarbat Ness Lighthouse and gorse bushes.
The lighthouse is seen from the car park rising over the gorse bushes.

The lighthouse is accessed via a gate; a small info plaque can be read before you enter.

Entrance to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse.
The gate to access the lighthouse grounds.

Approaching the lighthouse

A long, straight tarmac path takes you directly to the lighthouse, which is ideal for wheelchair users. The lighthouse looked very impressive with its bright red and white paint; it was obviously a well-maintained tower, a credit to the Northern Lighthouse Board.

Path to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse.
We made our way to the lighthouse.
 
Wide angle view of Tarbat Ness Lighthouse.
It's a lovely looking lighthouse with crisp vibrant colours.
 
Tarbat Ness Lighthouse
Photo from the entrance to the main lighthouse grounds.
 
The top of Tarbat Ness Lighthouse
The top of the lighthouse.
 
Another view of the lighthouse.
View from Wilkhaven Point.

Wilkhaven Point

We passed by the lighthouse and found a board giving information about the many species of wildlife that can be seen from the peninsula. This entire area was covered with dense purple heather but had multiple walking paths leading to Wilkhaven Point. We initially turned left and followed the path north; from here, we could see Dunrobin Castle, Golspie, Loch Fleet, Embo and Dornoch.

Wilkhaven Point.
At Wilkhaven Point, looking towards Caithness.

The rugged coastline here has many nooks and crannies to explore. We followed the path around to the eastern part of the peninsula, and to our amazement, we could see all the way across the Moray Firth to where we live at Buckie. The distinct shape of the Bin of Cullen is hard to miss!

Moray Firth View. East coast lighthouse.
Looking across the water to our home in Buckie. The bump of the Bin of Cullen can be seen.

We followed the path back to the lighthouse and retraced our steps to the car park. I had one final walk to the scenic viewpoint at the car park's east side. This is where I got the classic shot of the lighthouse with the rugged coastal features seen below.

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse with coastal features. Distinguishing broad red bands.
The classic view of the lighthouse.

History of Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

At an impressive 41 meters, Tarbat Ness is Scotland's second-tallest land-based lighthouse. Designed by the renowned Scottish engineer Robert Stevenson, it first shone its light on January 26, 1830. The distinctive two red bands were added in 1915, making it easily identifiable during the day. It's said that the lighthouse's site was once a Roman fort and later a witches' coven.

Because it is built on a fault line, it has been reported in the past that the lamp glasses rattled with the force of earthquake shocks.

The Stevenson Legacy

The Stevenson family, led by Robert Stevenson and later including his famous grandson, writer Robert Louis Stevenson, designed many of Scotland's iconic lighthouses. Robert Louis Stevenson's adventures with his father inspired classic tales like "Kidnapped" and "Treasure Island." James Smith of Inverness built the lighthouse.

Golspie view. The lighthouse is on the north east tip, not the north west tip of Easter Ross.
Looking towards Golspie.

Life of a Lightkeeper

Until its automation in 1985, a Principal Lightkeeper and an Assistant, along with their families, resided at Tarbat Ness. Light keeping was a challenging and solitary job. Keepers worked in shifts, ensuring the light flashed correctly throughout the night and maintaining the premises during the day. The keepers' cottages, once homes to these dedicated individuals, are now privately owned.

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse seen from Culbin Forest.
The lighthouse is seen from Culbin Forest on the Hill 99 Trail.

Modern Operations

Today, the lighthouse operates automatically. A light sensor activates the beacon at dusk and deactivates it at dawn. Monitored 24/7 from a remote centre, the light is serviced annually by Northern Lighthouse Board technicians. The light flashes every 30 seconds.

Dornoch view
The lighthouse with the coastal towns of Dornoch and Golspie.

The Role of the Northern Lighthouse Board

The Northern Lighthouse Board has been crucial to maritime safety for over two centuries. With Scotland's extensive and often treacherous coastline, the Board oversees all lights, buoys, and beacons. Adapting to modern needs, they have incorporated solar and wind energy, high-power LED lights, and advanced monitoring systems. Funded by Light Dues from commercial vessels, the Board's work is essential for safe navigation in these waters.

A Wildlife Hotspot

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is known as a hot spot for wildlife enthusiasts. It's possible to spot many varieties of birds and aquatic life, such as:

  • Bottlenose dolphins (May – October)

  • Minke whales (year-round)

  • Eider ducks (November – February)

  • Long-tailed ducks (year-round)

  • Gannets (November – February)

  • Great Northern divers (year-round)

  • Red-throated divers (November – February)

  • Arctic skuas (year-round)

  • Great skuas (November – February)

  • Manx shearwaters (year-round)

  • Wheatears (September – October)

  • Meadow pipits (year-round)

Light on and off
This photo shows the lighthouse, as seen from Embo, off then on.

FAQs on Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

How to get to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

Here are directions to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse:

  1. The simplest way is to head to Tain, which is on the A9 motorway in north Scotland.

  2. Leave Tain travelling east via Ankerville Street.

  3. Connect with the B9165 at Tarrel and continue northeast to Portmahomack.

  4. From Portmahomack, leave via Golf Course Road, travelling northeast.

  5. Remain on this road until you reach the lighthouse car park.

Is there a car park at Tarbat Ness lighthouse?

Yes, there is a good-sized car park available at the lighthouse tower.

Are there toilet facilities at Tarbat Ness lighthouse?

No toilets are available at the lighthouse.

Is the lighthouse suitable for disabled visitors?

The car park and path to the lighthouse are suitable for wheelchairs, but the paths around Wilkhaven Point are just dirt tracks amongst the heather, so they are not suitable.

Is it possible to go inside the lighthouse?

No, the lighthouse is still operating and off-limits to the public.

Can motorhomes use the car park?

Motorhomes can park, but no overnight parking is allowed.

How tall is Tarbat Ness lighthouse?

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is 135ft / 41 metres tall and has 203 steps to the top. It is Scotland's third tallest lighthouse, beaten by Skerryvore Lighthouse in Argyll and Bute and North Ronaldsay Lighthouse in North Ronaldsay.

Drone photo of Tarbat Ness Lighthouse
Another view of the car park and access road.

Key information

  • Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is found on the northeast tip of the Tarbat Peninsula in Easter Ross.

  • The nearest town is Portmohomock on the peninsula's west coast.

  • It was designed by Robert Stevenson and automated in 1985.

  • It is the third-tallest lighthouse in Scotland.

  • The lighthouse flashes every thirty seconds.

  • The peninsula is a haven for many forms of wildlife.

Thornton family
A wee selfie before heading home!

Conclusion

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is an ideal destination for road trippers. The large car park is big enough for motor homes or minibuses, and the short walk to and around the lighthouse is straightforward and pleasant. We thoroughly enjoyed our little trip to the tip of the Easter Ross peninsula.

All information was correct at the time of writing, please check things like entry costs and opening times before you arrive.

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