A Legend in a Glass

Few Scottish drinks carry quite the weight of history that Atholl Brose does. The legend goes that in 1475, the 1st Earl of Atholl outwitted his enemies — Highland rebels loyal to the troublesome John of the Isles — by filling a well they were known to drink from with a heady mixture of oatmeal water, honey, and whisky. His foes drank deeply, the brose did its work, and the Earl captured them without a blade being drawn. Whether the story is strictly true hardly matters; it's exactly the kind of cunning, good-humoured triumph that Scotland does so well.

From that martial beginning, Atholl Brose found its way into the grandest of company. King George IV was reportedly taken with it during his famous visit to Edinburgh in 1822 — the event that sparked a nationwide revival of Highland culture and tartan pride — and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert both sampled it during their visits to Dunkeld in the 1840s. It became a drink associated with celebration and ceremony, poured out at Hogmanay, at Burns Night suppers, and whenever something worth toasting came along.

Getting the Best from Your Brose

The soul of Atholl Brose lies in that oat-steeped water, sometimes called "brose water" or "oatmeal liquor." Soaking pinhead or coarse oatmeal overnight — rather than using fine rolled oats — gives you a more complexly flavoured liquid, slightly silky in texture, with a gentle nuttiness that ties the whole drink together. Fine oats work in a pinch, but they can turn the water a little cloudy and are harder to strain cleanly. When squeezing the soaked oats through muslin or a fine sieve, be thorough — that milky, starchy liquid is what makes this drink unique.

For the whisky, lean towards a smooth, honeyed Highland or Speyside expression rather than something heavily peated. You want the Scotch to complement the heather honey rather than overpower it. A good blended Scotch works perfectly well here too — this is a drink of celebration, not a tasting exercise. The honey should be Scottish heather honey if you can get it; its floral, slightly resinous character is a beautiful match. Stir it thoroughly into the oat water before adding the whisky, so it fully dissolves. As for cream — it's entirely optional, but a swirl of lightly whipped double cream transforms the drink into something wonderfully indulgent, closer to a liquid cranachan.

When and How to Serve It

Atholl Brose is a natural fit for the darker months — a dram-sized measure to welcome guests at Hogmanay, or served in small glasses after a Burns Night supper alongside a wedge of shortbread. It keeps well in a sealed bottle in the fridge for up to five days (without cream; add cream just before serving), which makes it ideal for making ahead when you're entertaining. Serve it chilled, over a single large ice cube if you like, or gently warmed for a cold winter's evening. However you serve it, raise a glass to the Earl of Atholl — whatever his methods, the man had impeccable taste.

Ingredients

• 40g pinhead or coarse oatmeal
• 360ml cold water
• 3 tbsp Scottish heather honey (or a good quality clear honey)
• 360ml blended Scotch whisky or a smooth Highland single malt
• 240ml double cream (optional, for serving)

Method

1. Place the oatmeal in a bowl or large jug and pour over the cold water. Stir well to combine, then cover with a plate or cling film and leave to soak at room temperature for at least 12 hours, or overnight (up to 24 hours is ideal for maximum flavour).
2. Set a piece of muslin cloth or a very fine mesh sieve over a clean bowl or jug. Pour the soaked oatmeal mixture through it, allowing the liquid to drain through naturally. Once it has drained, gather the muslin and squeeze firmly — or press the oats against the sieve with the back of a spoon — to extract every last drop of liquid. Discard the spent oats or add them to porridge.
3. Add the honey to the oat liquid while it is still at room temperature (this helps it dissolve more easily). Stir thoroughly for a minute or so until the honey has fully dissolved and the liquid looks smooth and glossy.
4. Pour in the whisky and stir well to combine. Taste and adjust — if you prefer it a little sweeter, add another teaspoon of honey; if you want it stronger, a splash more whisky. Transfer to a clean sealed bottle and refrigerate until ready to serve. The brose will keep for up to 5 days in the fridge.
5. When ready to serve, pour the Atholl Brose into small glasses or tumblers, over a single large ice cube if desired. If using cream, lightly whip the double cream to very soft, barely-thickened peaks — it should still be pourable. Swirl or pour a measure gently over the back of a spoon on top of each drink so it floats. Serve immediately.