Tucked away on the shores of Loch Shin in the Sutherland Highlands, Ferry Wood is one of those places that manages to pack a surprising amount into a short, easy walk. Ancient Scots pines, wildlife ponds, wooden sculptures, lochside views, a 2,000-year-old Iron Age broch and a close-up look at a listed hydroelectric dam – all within a gentle circular trail that starts from the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre in Lairg. It’s the kind of walk that suits everyone, from families with young children to anyone looking for a peaceful wander through a beautiful Highland woodland.
A Brief History of Ferry Wood and Dùn Coille Broch
People have lived in the Lairg area for thousands of years. The land around the south-eastern end of Loch Shin was home to farming communities as far back as the Neolithic period, and the surrounding hills are dotted with the remains of chambered cairns, hut circles and burnt mounds - many of which can still be explored on the nearby Ord Hill Archaeological Trail.
Ferry Wood itself is a mixed woodland of native Scots pines and birches, managed by Forestry and Land Scotland. The Gaelic name for the wood is Coille a’ Phuirt, meaning “wood of the ferry” - a reference to the crossing point that once operated here on Loch Shin. Within the wood, on a natural hillock overlooking the loch, stand the remains of Dùn Coille – an Iron Age broch believed to be around 2,000 years old.
Brochs are a type of drystone roundhouse structure unique to Scotland. They were typically circular, hollow-walled towers that could stand up to 10 metres tall, with double walls containing internal staircases and galleries. Dùn Coille is slightly oval in plan, measuring roughly 15 metres by 14 metres, with walls that may have been around 5 metres thick. An interpretive panel at the site describes how guards would have kept watch from rooms off the entrance, while stairs led up between the inner and outer walls to galleries above the family living area with its central hearth.
Today, very little of Dùn Coille remains above ground. The lowest course of outer wall stones can still be traced around the perimeter, with massive blocks protruding from the turf, but the interior is filled with rubble. The site was recorded as having been damaged by forestry ploughing in the 1970s, and local tradition suggests that some of the broch’s stones may have been carried across the loch to build the first church of Lairg. The broch may also have been part of a chain of defensive structures along Loch Shin - the better-preserved Sallachy Broch sits on the western shore.
The other major landmark visible from the walk is the Lairg Dam, which holds back Loch Shin as part of the Shin Hydro-Electric Power Scheme. Construction began in 1954 and was completed in 1959, raising the level of the loch by around 11 metres. The power station is built from coursed rubble with a baronial-style round stair tower – a deliberate architectural choice by the North of Scotland Hydro Electric Board, since the dam sits directly opposite the village of Lairg. The scheme is now owned by SSE Renewables.
Lairg also has a remarkable geological claim to fame. Scientists have identified a gravity anomaly beneath the village – known as the Lairg Gravity Low – which may be the remains of a massive asteroid impact crater around 40 kilometres wide and 1.2 billion years old. An exhibition about the discovery can be seen at the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre.
Our Visit to Ferry Wood
Arriving at Ferrycroft
Janette and I visited Ferry Wood on a bright April day during a trip to Sutherland. We parked at the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre car park, which is free and has plenty of space – including room for caravans and larger vehicles. The centre itself is well worth a look if it’s open (it’s seasonal, typically April to October), with a small café, gift shop, toilets and interactive displays about the local history and wildlife.
From the visitor centre, the Ferry Wood walk heads off to the right along a wide, firm gravel track. You pass through a gate and almost immediately you’re greeted by the Forestry and Land Scotland sign – “Ferry Wood / Coille a’ Phuirt” – with Scots pines rising ahead of you. It’s a lovely entrance to the walk and sets the tone for what’s to come.
Into the Woods
The path enters the woodland proper through a gate and the atmosphere changes instantly. You’re surrounded by tall, mature Scots pines with beautifully textured bark, their canopy filtering the spring sunshine. The path is wide and well-surfaced – firm gravel throughout – making it accessible for pushchairs and wheelchairs for the most part, with just one moderate slope along the way.
One of the first things we noticed was the wooden wildlife sculptures dotted along the route. Near one of the wildlife ponds, there’s a lovely carved frog sitting in the grass – weathered and mossy, it almost blends into its surroundings. A little further on, a tall wooden dragonfly stands among the birch and pine trees. These are a nice touch and would be a real hit with younger visitors.
The path continues through the pines, curving gently through the woodland. The trees here are a real mix – tall, mature Scots pines with their distinctive orange-red bark alongside silver birches just beginning to leaf out in the April air. The woodland floor is covered in heather and mosses, and it felt incredibly peaceful. We also noticed a lot of lichen on the tree trunks – always a sign of how clean the air is up here in the Highlands.
Dùn Coille Broch
As the path leaves the denser woodland and enters a more open area of heather and scattered pines, you arrive at the highlight of the walk – Dùn Coille Broch. It sits on a raised grassy mound to the right of the path, and at first glance you might not immediately realise what you’re looking at. The broch survives only as a grass-covered hillock with scattered stones poking through the turf – a far cry from the imposing 10-metre tower it may once have been.
An interpretive panel at the base of the mound – titled “High rise living” – helps bring the site to life. It explains how the broch would have functioned, with its double walls, internal staircase, guard rooms and central hearth. The panel also poses an interesting question: was this broch part of a chain of defensive structures along Loch Shin, connected to the better-preserved Sallachy Broch on the west shore?
What really makes Dùn Coille special, though, is its position. Standing on the mound and looking out, you get a panoramic view that takes in Loch Shin stretching away to the northwest, the mountains of Sutherland beyond, the village of Lairg, and the Lairg Dam directly below. It’s easy to see why Iron Age people chose this spot – the commanding views in every direction would have made it an ideal lookout as well as a home.
Loch Shin and the Lairg Dam
The walk continues past the broch and loops back through the woodland, offering some lovely views of Loch Shin along the way. At 27 kilometres long, Loch Shin is the largest loch in Sutherland, and on a clear day the views across to the mountains are spectacular. We could make out Ben More Assynt and Ben Klibreck in the distance, their tops still dusted with the last of the winter snow.
We also got a great close-up look at the Lairg Dam from the trail. The dam and its integrated power station are quite something to see – a gravity dam built from mass concrete with a stone-clad power station that has a distinctly baronial feel, complete with a round stair tower. It was listed as a Category C building in 2011 as part of a survey of Scotland’s hydroelectric heritage. The dam’s water level is very carefully managed, since any flood would engulf the village of Lairg directly downstream.
The walk back loops through the woodland and returns you to the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre. In total, the circular route took us about an hour at a relaxed pace with plenty of photo stops – you could do it more quickly, but there’s no rush. It’s the kind of walk where the joy is in taking your time.
Videos from Ferry Wood
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Ferry Wood walk?
The circular walk through Ferry Wood is approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) and takes around 1 to 1.5 hours at a relaxed pace, depending on how many photo stops you make along the way.
Is the Ferry Wood walk suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs?
The path is wide, firm gravel and largely smooth, making it suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs for most of the route. There is one longer moderate slope and a gate to pass through. Forestry and Land Scotland describe it as accessible.
Is there an entry fee for Ferry Wood?
No, Ferry Wood is free to access at any time of year. The Ferrycroft Visitor Centre is also free to enter, though it only opens seasonally (typically April to October).
Is there parking at Ferry Wood?
Yes, there is a free car park at the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre with ample space, including room for caravans and larger vehicles. The car park is signposted from the centre of Lairg village.
Can I take my dog on the Ferry Wood walk?
Yes, dogs are welcome on the Ferry Wood walk. Please keep your dog under control and clean up after them, as the woodland is home to wildlife.
What facilities are available at Ferrycroft?
The Ferrycroft Visitor Centre has a small café, gift shop, toilets (including disabled and baby changing facilities), and interactive displays about local history, wildlife and the Lairg asteroid discovery. There is also an outdoor play area with swings, a climbing frame and a zip wire. The centre is run by High Life Highland and opens seasonally.
Is the broch at Ferry Wood worth seeing?
While Dùn Coille broch survives only as a grassy mound with scattered foundation stones, the site is well worth visiting for its commanding position and the panoramic views across Loch Shin, the Lairg Dam and the surrounding mountains. An interpretive panel at the site helps you imagine what the broch would have looked like in its prime.
Key Information
- Location: Ferrycroft Visitor Centre, Ord Place, Lairg, Sutherland, IV27 4AZ
- Grid Reference: NC 5719 0679 (broch)
- Managed by: Forestry and Land Scotland (woodland and trails); High Life Highland (visitor centre)
- Entry: Free
- Parking: Free car park at Ferrycroft Visitor Centre, suitable for caravans and larger vehicles
- Facilities: Café, toilets (including disabled and baby changing), gift shop, play area, interactive displays (seasonal)
- Accessibility: Wide, firm gravel paths. Gentle gradients with one longer moderate slope. One gate on route. Largely suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs
- Dogs: Welcome, under control
- Walk Distance: Approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) circular
What Else is Nearby?
Ord Hill Archaeological Trail, Lairg – Starting from the far end of the Ferrycroft car park, this trail climbs Ord Hill and takes you past Neolithic chambered cairns, Bronze Age hut circles and a burnt mound. The views from the top over Loch Shin and Lairg are stunning. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
Falls of Shin – About 10 minutes’ drive south of Lairg, the Falls of Shin are one of the best places in Scotland to watch Atlantic salmon leaping upstream (best between June and September). There’s a visitor centre with a restaurant, gift shop, mini golf and forest trails.
Raven’s Rock Gorge – A dramatic wooded gorge near Bonar Bridge, around 15 minutes from Lairg. A short walk through native woodland leads to viewpoints above the gorge, where the River Carron has carved deep into the rock. Free to visit.
Loch Shin – The largest loch in Sutherland at 27 kilometres long, Loch Shin is popular for fishing, birdwatching and simply taking in the scenery. The drive along its northern shore towards Laxford Bridge passes through some of the wildest and most beautiful landscape in Scotland.
The Pier, Lairg – If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in Lairg, The Pier is a popular café and restaurant with panoramic views across Little Loch Shin. It serves hearty meals, soups and home baking in a relaxed waterside setting.
Final Thoughts
Ferry Wood is one of those places that doesn’t shout about itself, but quietly delivers a really enjoyable experience. The woodland is beautiful, the broch site is fascinating (even in its ruined state), and the views across Loch Shin and the dam are a real bonus. Combined with the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre and the option to tackle the Ord Hill trail as well, it makes for a great stop if you’re passing through Lairg or using it as a base for exploring Sutherland. We’d thoroughly recommend it.
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