Tucked into the folds of Glenmore Forest Park in the Cairngorms National Park, An Lochan Uaine – the Green Loch – is one of the most beautiful spots in Scotland. A small freshwater lochan with water the colour of polished turquoise, it sits at the foot of the rocky slopes of Creag nan Gall and has been drawing visitors for generations. Whether you believe its extraordinary colour comes from science or from fairies washing their clothes, there’s no denying this place has a quiet, otherworldly atmosphere.
My wife Janette and I visited the Green Loch on a crisp January afternoon, parking at Allt Mor car park south of the loch and walking in through the ancient Caledonian pines. Even in the depths of winter, the forest was alive with colour – golden light catching the bark of old Scots pines, clear burns tumbling over rocks, and that first glimpse of vivid green water appearing through the trees. It was well worth the walk.
Glenmore Forest Park – A Forest with History
Before we get to the loch itself, it’s worth understanding the remarkable forest you’ll be walking through to reach it. Glenmore Forest Park is a remnant of the Caledonian Forest – the vast pinewood that once blanketed much of the Scottish Highlands after the last Ice Age. Pollen samples taken from the bed of nearby Loch Morlich have confirmed that Scots pine has been the dominant tree species here for around 6,000 years.
The forest has seen plenty of human activity over the centuries. Timber extraction from Glenmore dates back to at least the 17th century, and in 1782, the Duke of Gordon offered “a hundred thousand trees full grown and fit for the Royal Navy” to prospective buyers. The Glenmore Company bought the timber rights in 1784 and set up a shipyard at the mouth of the River Spey, building 47 large ships before their contract ended in 1805. Logs were floated down Loch Morlich and on down the Spey to reach the shipyard – a remarkable operation for the time.
The Forestry Commission acquired Glenmore in 1923 and began replanting, initially using non-native species like Sitka spruce alongside native Scots pine. The area was declared a forest park in 1948 and became a national nature reserve in 2007. Today, Forestry and Land Scotland is working to remove non-native tree species and restore the pinewood to something closer to its natural state. Some of the Scots pines at the Ryvoan Pass near the Green Loch have been dated at over 300 years old.
Glenmore also has a fascinating wartime connection. During the Second World War, Norwegian resistance fighters escaped to Britain and trained here as part of the top-secret SOE (Special Operations Executive). Known as Kompani Linge, they used the mountains and forests of Glenmore to prepare for sabotage missions against the occupying Nazi forces in Norway. Their most famous operation was the 1943 raid on the Vemork heavy water plant in Telemark, which disrupted Nazi efforts to develop an atomic bomb. A memorial near the Glenmore Visitor Centre commemorates their bravery, and you can still find remnants of the railway lines they practised blowing up near the shore of Loch Morlich.
The forest is home to an impressive array of wildlife, including Scottish crossbills, crested tits, capercaillie, red squirrels, and red deer. Golden eagles and ospreys can occasionally be spotted overhead, and otters frequent the burns and lochs. If you’re walking between April and August, dogs must be kept on leads to protect ground-nesting capercaillie.
The Ryvoan Pass and the Thieves’ Road
The Green Loch sits at the entrance to the Ryvoan Pass, a narrow gap between Creag nan Gall and Meall a’ Bhuachaille. This pass was historically part of the Thieves’ Road, a route used by cattle raiders from Lochaber and Glen Coe in the 17th century. The MacDonalds of Glen Coe and Clan Cameron from Loch Eil would come through the Rothiemurchus Forest and out through the Ryvoan Pass, giving them access to the rich farmlands of Moray and Aberdeenshire for their raiding parties. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place, and knowing its history adds another layer to the walk.
Beyond the Green Loch, the pass continues to Ryvoan Bothy, a small shelter maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association. It’s a popular detour for walkers, and if you continue further still, the path eventually leads all the way to Nethy Bridge – a magnificent linear walk if you can arrange transport at either end.
Why is the Green Loch Green?
This is the question everyone asks, and there are several theories. Geologists classify An Lochan Uaine as a morainic tarn – a body of water that formed in a depression left by retreating glaciers. It sits at an elevation of 316 metres (1,037 feet) and stretches about 460 metres in length.
The most commonly cited scientific explanations for the colour include trace amounts of algae in the water, reflections from the surrounding pine trees, and particles of mica and other minerals in the rock. Some sources suggest that fine glacial sediment suspended in the water scatters light in a way that produces the green-blue tint, though the glaciers themselves retreated from here over 10,000 years ago. The water is remarkably clear – you can see right to the bottom in the shallows – so whatever is causing the colour, it’s subtle.
But the explanation most people prefer is the one rooted in Highland folklore. According to local legend, the loch is green because the Sithe (pronounced “Shee”) – the fairies of Scottish tradition – wash their green clothes in its waters. These aren’t the tiny, delicate fairies of children’s stories. The Highland Sithe were closer to human-sized, touchy, and vengeful. It was said you should address them politely in Gaelic if you met one, never call your companions by name while under the trees, and avoid wearing green, which was known to annoy them. Big Donald, the King of the Fairies, was said to live beside nearby Loch Morlich – so it would have been his clan keeping the loch’s colour topped up. Think of it as the fairy equivalent of a red sock in with the white washing.
Our Visit to the Green Loch
Getting There and Parking
We visited on a bright January afternoon, driving from Aviemore along the road towards the Cairngorm ski centre. About seven miles from the town, just past the Glenmore Visitor Centre and Loch Morlich, we turned into the Allt Mor car park on the left. This is a pay-and-display car park managed by The Highland Council, with parking charges enforced. It’s well signed and sits among some magnificent old Scots pines.
There are several car parks in the area you can use: the Glenmore Visitor Centre car park (now managed by Aviemore and Glenmore Community Trust), the Forestry Commission car park signed “An Lochan Uaine”, and the Allt Mor car park where we parked. Whatever you do, do not drive past the barrier at the end of the road near Glenmore Lodge and park there. It blocks access for emergency vehicles and causes real problems.
The Allt Mor car park has a large information board showing the trail network, local wildlife, and the history of the Caledonian pines. It’s well worth having a look before you set off, as it marks out the different waymarked routes and shows you exactly where the Green Loch sits in relation to the car park.
The Walk Through the Forest
From Allt Mor, the walk to the Green Loch takes around 40 minutes at a comfortable pace. The route follows forest tracks and well-maintained paths, and while there are a few gentle slopes, nothing is particularly steep or challenging. It’s part of the wider Ryvoan and Lochan Uaine circuit, a popular circular walk of about 5.8 kilometres.
The path starts between two boulders at the far end of the car park, by an information board. You cross a footbridge over the Allt Mor burn almost immediately, and from there the trail weaves through a wonderful mix of tall, thick pines and younger saplings, with heather, blueberry, and juniper carpeting the forest floor. The sound of running water is a constant companion – burns and small streams tumble down from the mountains on all sides.
Janette and I were struck by just how atmospheric the forest is, even in January. The low winter sun caught the tops of the pines, turning them gold against a pale blue sky, while the forest floor was a patchwork of brown bracken and green heather. Young Scots pines were pushing up everywhere – a sign of the natural regeneration that’s been happening here since the removal of non-native species began in the 1990s.
The route crosses several footbridges over burns along the way. Each one offers a nice viewpoint upstream or downstream, where you can see the crystal-clear water flowing over stones and through banks of moss. A fallen pine tree had come down across one of the larger burns, creating a natural dam effect that Janette thought looked wonderful – nature doing its own landscaping.
The walk is well waymarked throughout, with coloured marker posts guiding you along. You can follow the yellow markers for a fairly direct route, or pick up the blue markers for a slightly different path that takes you via Glenmore Lodge. Either way, the signage makes it very straightforward – you won’t get lost.
At points the trees thin out and you get glimpses of the surrounding hills. On our walk, we could see Meall a’ Bhuachaille (the hill of the shepherd) rising above the tree line to the north. At 810 metres, it’s a popular hill walk in its own right, and on a clear day the views from its summit stretch across to the Cairngorm plateau.
Arriving at An Lochan Uaine
After about 35 minutes of walking, we reached the point where the main track comes close to the loch. There are stone steps descending from the path on the right, and a viewing area with a bench where you can sit and take in the scene. The first glimpse of the water through the trees stopped us both in our tracks. Even having seen plenty of photographs beforehand, the colour was more vivid than we’d expected.
A boardwalk and bench offer a lovely viewpoint from above, looking down through the pines to the water below. From here you can also descend the steps to reach the loch shore itself, which is what we did.
Exploring the Shore
Down at the water’s edge, the colour of the loch was extraordinary. Looking out from the small sandy beach, the shallows nearest us were a pale green-gold, darkening to a deep turquoise further out. The far shore rises steeply as the scree-covered flanks of Creag nan Gall (the Rock of the Stranger), with Scots pines clinging tenaciously to the rocky slopes. The whole scene felt like something from a painting.
The water was incredibly clear. In the shallows we could see right to the bottom – every stone, every submerged log perfectly visible through the green-tinted water. It was easy to see how this place has inspired folklore for centuries. There’s something undeniably magical about it.
We spent a good while exploring the shore, walking around the accessible side of the loch where a rough path threads between the pines and juniper bushes. A pair of mallard ducks were wading contentedly in the shallows, completely unbothered by us, and we watched them for a while. The combination of the green water, the pine-scented air, and the stillness of the place made it hard to leave.
Videos from the Green Loch
FAQs on the Green Loch (An Lochan Uaine)
Here are some frequently asked questions about visiting the Green Loch near Aviemore.
How long is the walk to the Green Loch?
From the Allt Mor car park, the walk to the Green Loch takes around 35 to 40 minutes each way on a well-maintained forest track. The full Ryvoan and Lochan Uaine circuit is about 5.8 kilometres (3.6 miles) and takes roughly two hours to complete. It’s graded as easy to moderate and is suitable for most walkers, including families with older children.
Is there parking at the Green Loch?
There is no parking directly at the loch. The nearest options are the Allt Mor car park (pay and display, managed by Highland Council), the Glenmore Visitor Centre car park (managed by Aviemore and Glenmore Community Trust), and the Forestry Commission car park signed “An Lochan Uaine”. Do not drive past the barrier near Glenmore Lodge and park on the track, as this blocks access for emergency vehicles.
Can I swim in the Green Loch?
There is no law preventing you from swimming in the Green Loch under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, and many people do. However, the water is extremely cold year-round, as it sits at over 300 metres elevation in the Cairngorms. Sadly, there have been cold-water drowning deaths in Scottish lochs in recent years. If you do plan to swim, never go alone, and be prepared for the cold.
Can I wild camp at the Green Loch?
Yes, wild camping is permitted under Scottish access rights. Please be respectful of other visitors, use a gas stove rather than lighting fires (fires and barbecues are not permitted in Glenmore Forest Park), and leave no trace when you depart. The nearest official campsite is Glenmore Campsite, which is within walking distance. See our guide to camping in Aviemore for more options.
Are dogs allowed at the Green Loch?
Yes, dogs are welcome on the walk to the Green Loch. However, capercaillie nest in these woods, so dogs must be kept on leads between 1 April and 31 August to protect ground-nesting birds. Please clean up after your dog and keep them under control at all times.
Why is the Green Loch green?
The distinctive turquoise-green colour is likely caused by a combination of trace algae in the water, reflections from surrounding trees, and particles of mica or other minerals in the rock. According to Highland folklore, the real reason is that the local fairies wash their green clothes in the water. We’ll leave you to decide which explanation you prefer.
Where can I stay near the Green Loch?
We always recommend Scandinavian Village in central Aviemore as a great base for exploring the area. The Cairngorm Hotel is another solid choice. For something closer to the loch, Glenmore Campsite is within walking distance. See our full guide to things to do in Aviemore for more ideas on accommodation and activities.
Key Information on the Green Loch
- An Lochan Uaine (the Green Loch) is a small freshwater lochan in Glenmore Forest Park, within the Cairngorms National Park.
- The Gaelic name translates as “the green lochan” – it’s pronounced roughly “oo-an yoo-an-yi”.
- The loch sits at 316 metres elevation and is approximately 460 metres long.
- The distinctive green colour is attributed to algae, mineral particles, and tree reflections – or to fairies washing their clothes.
- Located approximately six miles east of Aviemore, within Glenmore Forest Park.
- Free to visit. Parking charges apply at nearby car parks (Allt Mor, Glenmore Visitor Centre).
- The walk from Allt Mor car park takes approximately 35 to 40 minutes each way.
- The Glenmore Visitor Centre has a café and toilets (toilets only available when café is open). Public toilets are also available in Glenmore village year-round.
- Dogs are welcome but must be on leads from 1 April to 31 August to protect nesting capercaillie.
- The Cairngorm Reindeer Centre is on the same road, just before the Glenmore Visitor Centre.
What Else is Nearby?
The Green Loch is in one of the best areas of Scotland for outdoor activities. Here are some other places to visit while you’re in the area:
- Loch Morlich – A stunning freshwater loch just a short distance away, with a sandy beach, watersports, and a beautiful circular walking trail. It’s one of the most popular spots near Aviemore.
- Cairngorm Reindeer Herd – Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd, based at the Reindeer Centre on the road to Glenmore Lodge. A brilliant family activity.
- Beaver Trail, Rothiemurchus – A wonderful family walk through ancient Caledonian forest, with the chance to spot beaver activity around the lochan.
- The Penny Bun at Badaguish – Not far away and serving some of the best food in the Highlands, with dishes inspired by the local Cairngorms landscape.
- Ryvoan Bothy – If you want to extend your walk, continue past the Green Loch and up through the Ryvoan Pass to this small mountain bothy. It adds about an extra kilometre each way.
For a full overview, see our guides to things to do at Loch Morlich and the best things to do in Aviemore.
Conclusion
The Green Loch lived up to everything we’d heard about it. The walk through Glenmore Forest is beautiful in itself – the ancient Caledonian pines, the tumbling burns, the heather and juniper under a winter sky – but arriving at the loch and seeing that vivid turquoise water for the first time was something else entirely. It genuinely doesn’t look real. Janette kept saying it looked like something you’d see in the Caribbean, not in the Cairngorms in January.
Whether you come in the height of summer when the sun illuminates every shade of green, or on a quiet winter afternoon like we did, An Lochan Uaine is one of those places that stays with you. It’s easy to reach, free to visit, and the walk is suitable for most abilities. If you’re visiting Aviemore and the Cairngorms, make sure you don’t miss it.
Leave a comment below