Culbin Forest Walk / Hill 99 Trail

Culbin Forest is one of those places I had never heard of before despite being a Moray local all of my life! Found just northwest of Forres, the forest stretches from Findhorn Bay to Nairn and features an extensive network of gravel tracks ideal for walking or mountain biking.

One of the highlights of his forest trail is the large Viewpoint Tower, which offers 360-degree views over the treetops and out to the Moray Firth.

Join my family and me as we visit Culbin Forest on a pleasant afternoon in early August.

Culbin Forest Car Park

My in-laws live in Forres, so I was no stranger to the town, but I was surprised to see the turn to Culbin Forest was more or less just after the old little Chef building on the west side. The car park, also called Wellhill Car Park, can be found after following a minor road from the A96.

I had expected just a dirt side road to park on while undertaking this walk, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a wide-spread car park with many tastefully located alcoves over a wide area. The central section has a well-maintained toilet block.

 

Parking was not free and charged at the following rates:

• Up to one hour - £2.00

• Up to 3 hours - £2.50

• Vehicle all day - £4.00

• Minibus/coach all day - £12.00

• Blue badge holders park for free.

Coins can be used to pay parking fees at the kiosks or online via the RingGo App using location code 53314.

Available Routes

Looking at the well-drawn Forestry Commission signs, we could see two routes were available:

• The Gravel Pit Ponds Trail - 1 mile / 30 minutes (Marked in black).

• The Hill 99 Trail - 2 3/4 miles / 2 hours (Marked in white).

The Gravel Pit Ponds Trail is just an added extra tagged onto the main Hill 99 Trail; it's optional.

The Gravel Pit Ponds Trail

Leaving the car park, we opted to undertake the pond trail first; this was the first major right turn after leaving the car park on the main Hill 99 trail. The trails are well-marked with posts, and gravel pit trail posts are marked in white and black.

 

 

This trail was only half an hour long, but the paths here are some of the best on the walk. The pond itself was brimming with wildlife, in particular huge dragonflies! They were so big they looked like small birds. We also spotted a large anthill here, which was teeming with them.

 

The gravel pits here were dug to extract the fine gravel, which was washed up by the sea and covered over by soil over time.

The Hill 99 Trail

After leaving the gravel pond trail, we rejoined the Hill 99 Trail, and the route marker posts were now black only.

The forest at Culbin differs significantly from other forests I've visited in Scotland. It seems to have its own unique biome with sandy forest areas, sections with heavy moss and the usual areas of dense pine forest.

 

Mosquitoes

We all noticed that Culbin Forest has its own variety of mosquitoes! This was my first experience with mosquitoes in Scotland... these aren't just big midges; they are much bigger and can give a nasty bite. If you are considering your own walk here, I would consider getting some repellant and taking some antihistamines if you are prone to allergic reactions. Keep vigilant for ticks too, especially if you are wearing shorts.

The Viewpoint Tower

We finally arrived at our desired destination—the Viewpoint Tower. This large metal-framed tower offers magnificent views of the Moray Firth and the Caithness Mountains. You can also see inland, with many towns and wind farms in the distance past the tree tops.

The girls eagerly scrambled to the top and found locations engraved into the safety rails so they knew which direction to look to see various sights.

The tower was very stable, unlike some towers where you can feel an unnerving sway. We spent a lot of time here and spotted the Tarbat Ness Lighthouse and Cromarty Ferry crossing, which we used a couple of weeks ago on our visit to Embo. I took a few drone photos, then we continued to the Black Route and eventually returned to the car park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other locations at Culbin Forest

On our visit, we stuck to the main routes, but there are offshoots of these with other points of interest:

Sandlife Discover a charming, heather-filled nook encircled by lichen beds, showcasing how resilient life thrives in this challenging habitat.

• Sandlife—Discover a charming, heather-filled nook encircled by lichen beds, which showcases how resilient life thrives in this challenging habitat.

• The Gut—This muddy bay is a sanctuary for a variety of wading and water birds. Don't expect to find a typical beach here; instead, enjoy the rich birdlife.

• Buckie Loch—Where the forest meets the sea, this wild and desolate coastline could one day transform back into a true sea loch. For now, it's a fascinating stretch of marram dunes and heathland.

• Findhorn Bay - With some luck, you might spot ospreys or seals fishing at this picturesque river mouth, offering stunning views towards the village of Findhorn.

• Lady Culbin's Buried Trees - On the fringes of Culbin's largest sand-dune system, you'll find deep-rooted trees with unique, tapering trunks that appear twice as long as they seem.

• The Minister's Pool - A tranquil, reedy freshwater pool that attracts both birds and nature enthusiasts, located near Nairn East Beach.

• Otter Pool - Tucked away in a secluded corner of Culbin, this large pool is an excellent spot to observe some of Culbin's otters as they come to drink.

• Vickers Warwick BV512 crash site - There is a crash site of a WW2 bomber, but this is far off the beaten path and not recommended. You can find more information on it on the Walk Highlands website.

A Short History of Culbin Sands

Culbin Sands on the Moray coast is now a wildlife haven and natural beauty spot. It was once home to a thriving farming township that vanished in a sandstorm in 1694.

Part of the Kinnaird Estate, the area relied on coastal dune marram grass to stabilize the dunes. However, removing this grass destabilized the dunes, leading to a catastrophic sandstorm that engulfed the farms and buildings. The storm altered the River Findhorn's course and led to the abandonment of Kinnaird Estate in 1695. To combat the shifting sands, trees and dune grass were planted by local estates in the 19th century and the Forestry Commission in 1922.

Superstitious locals saw the storm as divine retribution, spawning myths and legends. Some blamed whisky smuggling or playing cards on a Sunday. A prominent legend tells of young Kinnaird, who, ignoring Sabbath warnings, played cards past midnight and allegedly invoked the Devil. Engrossed in the game, Kinnaird failed to notice the sands swallowing his estate. Other tales spoke of the storm as punishment for hiding smugglers.

As the sands shifted, remnants of the past occasionally emerged, including a dovecot, a chapel, and parts of a manor house. One boy, shouting down an uncovered chimney, received a ghostly reply that sent him fleeing in terror. Another story recounts the top branches of trees in the Laird's orchard reappearing and bearing fruit.

Culbin's shifting sands have revealed various historical artefacts over the years, including flint tools, prehistoric burial evidence, medieval finds, and even a crashed WWII bomber. As the sands continue to move, more of Culbin's hidden history may yet be uncovered.

FAQs on Culbin Forest Walk

How do you get to Culbin Forest Car Park?

From Forres:

1. Leave Forres on the A96 travelling west.

2. You will cross the Bridge of Findhorn and look for a right turn shortly after.

3. On the minor road, take a right here towards Dyke and Kintessack.

4. Take another right here.

5. Remain on this minor road until you see the signs for the forest car park.

If coming from Inverness, I would take the same route via the A96, taking a left this time at point 2 above.

Is overnight parking allowed at Culbin Forest Car Park?

No, the parking fees sign reads, "Overnight parking is not permitted".

Is the Culbin Forest Walk difficult?

It's not difficult. There is only one section that has a mild incline. The paths are very well maintained and easy to walk. Just keep in mind that if you complete the entire walk, you will be walking well over 4 miles.

Are there midges at Culbin Forest Walk?

We weren't bothered by midges, just mosquitoes, which is unusual for Scotland. Bring repellant and antihistamines if you need them.

Are there toilets at Culbin Forest Walk?

Yes, the toilet block is open all year round and includes accessible toilets and baby-changing facilities.

Videos from Culbin Viewpoint Tower

Here is a short video clip from the top of the tower:

Key Information

• Culbin Forest Walk is found just northwest of the town of Forres.

• There is a dedicated car park with applicable fees.

• A toilet block is available.

• Two routes are available: The Gravel Pit Ponds Trail and the Hill 99 Trail.

• A large viewpoint tower can be climbed halfway along the Hill 99 Trail.

• The forest is known for its shifting sand dunes, wading birds and gravel pit ponds.

• Mosquitoes can be a problem in the summer months; take repellant.

Conclusion

Culbin Forest Walk is an enchanting route and should be high on your list when visiting West Moray. The forest walk is unique, taking in many different types of forest, and the viewpoint tower, with its amazing views, is the icing on the cake. Just watch out for the mosquitoes in the Summer months!