Tucked away on the far north-east coast of Scotland, Keiss Beach is one of those places that completely takes you by surprise. It’s not on most people’s radar – even folk driving the North Coast 500 often speed past the wee village of Keiss without a second glance – but pull off the A99 and follow the signs, and you’ll find a beautiful stretch of golden sand backed by dunes, scattered with the crumbling remains of World War II defences, and offering sweeping views across Sinclair’s Bay.
My wife Janette and I stopped here after visiting nearby Keiss Castle, and although it was just a flying visit, we were both glad we did. Keiss Beach has a wild, windswept beauty that feels completely unspoilt – and the history woven into this stretch of coastline gives it an extra layer of fascination.
A Brief History of Keiss Beach and Sinclair’s Bay
Keiss Beach forms the northern end of Sinclair’s Bay, a wide sweeping arc of coastline that stretches south towards Wick and Noss Head. The bay takes its name from the Sinclair family, who were for centuries the dominant power in Caithness. At the northern tip of the beach, perched dramatically on crumbling cliffs, stand the ruins of Old Keiss Castle – a Z-plan tower house built in the late 1500s or early 1600s for George Sinclair, 5th Earl of Caithness.
The castle controlled this stretch of coastline alongside Ackergill Castle and the mighty Castle Sinclair Girnigoe further south. The 7th Earl of Caithness died at Keiss in 1698, and within two years the castle was recorded as ruinous. A replacement mansion house, confusingly also called Keiss Castle, was built further inland around 1755 and later remodelled into the Scottish Baronial pile you can see today.
Just along the coast from the beach sits Keiss Harbour, built in 1831 to serve the local fishing industry. The harbour was once bustling with boats fishing for herring, whelks, and crabs, and its stone warehouse and ice house still stand as testament to those busier times. The harbour remains active today, used by local creel boats working the productive crab grounds of Sinclair’s Bay.
But it’s the beach’s wartime history that really captures the imagination. During World War II, Sinclair’s Bay was identified as the most likely landing point for a Nazi invasion launched from occupied Norway. The long, firm, sandy beach was ideal for landing craft and gliders, and the flat hinterland behind it would have allowed rapid dispersal of troops and vehicles. The proximity to Wick harbour and the airfields at Wick and Skitten made the threat very real indeed.
The response was massive. Over 3,000 mines were laid along Sinclair’s Bay – reportedly the largest beach minefield in Britain at the time. Anti-tank concrete blocks were placed at intervals, machine-gun pillboxes were spaced every 400 yards, and large wooden poles were erected to prevent glider landings. Most remarkably, a flame barrage system was installed around the mouth of the Burn of Wester, capable of flooding a significant portion of the beach with a mixture of oil and petrol that could be ignited as an anti-personnel measure.
After the war, between 1945 and 1947, the minefield was cleared by Royal Engineers, assisted by German prisoners of war from the nearby POW Camp 165 at Watten. The concrete anti-tank blocks remain to this day, slowly being reclaimed by the sand and sea – a haunting reminder of just how close the threat of invasion came to this remote corner of Scotland.
Our Visit to Keiss Beach
Getting There
We arrived at Keiss Beach having just visited Keiss Castle, so we were already in the area. The beach is signposted from the village of Keiss, which sits just off the A99 between Wick and John O’Groats. Follow the signs through the village and you’ll find a small, free car park right beside the beach access point.
I should warn you – the car park is tiny. There’s space for maybe four or five cars at most, and when we arrived there were already several vehicles squeezed in. It’s an informal gravel area with a few stone cottages nearby and the flat, open Caithness farmland stretching out behind. If the car park is full, there’s roadside parking available back in the village.
On the Beach
From the car park, a short pebbly path – created by local residents to make access easier – leads you down to the beach. The first thing that strikes you is the sheer scale of the place. Sinclair’s Bay stretches away to the south, and on a clear day you can see all the way round to Noss Head Lighthouse.
The northern end of the beach, closest to the village, is noticeably rockier and stonier. It’s a mix of pebbles, boulders, and seaweed-covered rocks, with Keiss village and harbour visible on the headland beyond. This end of the beach is apparently a good spot for otter-watching, though we weren’t lucky enough to spot any on our visit.
We walked a little way south along the sand, where the beach opens out into a proper stretch of golden sand. The WWII anti-tank blocks were immediately obvious, lined up along the back of the beach at the base of the dunes like silent sentinels. It’s quite something to see them still there after more than 80 years, slowly being swallowed by the sand.
What really struck us both was how quiet it was. We had the entire beach to ourselves – just us, the sound of the waves, and the occasional seabird wheeling overhead. It’s the kind of beach where you can walk for miles without seeing another soul, and that sense of solitude and space is something truly special.
Our visit was just a quick stop – a walk along the sand and back – but it was enough to appreciate what a lovely spot this is. If you’re more ambitious, you can walk the full length of Keiss Beach and continue south onto Reiss Sands, a total distance of just under 5 kilometres. There’s a small burn separating the two beaches, so waterproof footwear is recommended if you want to cross.
Videos from Keiss Beach
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Keiss Beach free to visit?
Yes, Keiss Beach is completely free to visit and has open access all year round. The small car park beside the beach is also free.
Is there parking at Keiss Beach?
There is a small, free car park right next to the beach access point. However, it only has space for around four to five cars. If it’s full, there is roadside parking available in Keiss village.
Are dogs allowed on Keiss Beach?
Yes, Keiss Beach is dog-friendly with no restrictions. It’s a great spot for dog walking, with miles of sand to explore. Just be mindful of any wildlife, particularly nesting birds in spring and summer.
Are there toilets or facilities at Keiss Beach?
No, there are no public toilets, cafés, or other facilities at the beach. The nearest amenities are in Keiss village or further afield in Wick. Come prepared with everything you need.
Is Keiss Beach suitable for swimming?
While swimming is possible, the water is very cold even in summer months. There are no lifeguards on duty. The beach is better suited to walking, wildlife watching, and exploring the wartime remains.
Can I walk to Keiss Castle from the beach?
Yes, there is a coastal path from the beach car park heading north towards Keiss Harbour and on to Old Keiss Castle. The walk to the castle takes around 8–10 minutes. The path is informal and uneven in places, so sturdy footwear is recommended.
What are the WWII structures on the beach?
The concrete blocks you can see along the back of the beach are anti-tank defences from World War II. Sinclair’s Bay was considered the most likely invasion point for Nazi forces from occupied Norway, and the beach was heavily fortified with anti-tank obstacles, minefields, and pillboxes. The concrete blocks have survived more than 80 years of North Sea weather and are slowly being reclaimed by the sand.
Key Information
- Location: Keiss Beach, South Keiss, near Wick, Caithness, KW1 4XG
- Grid Reference: ND 3399 6058
- Managed by: Open access – no formal management
- Entry: Free
- Parking: Small free car park (approx. 4–5 spaces). Additional roadside parking in Keiss village
- Facilities: None – no toilets, café, or bins
- Accessibility: Beach access via a pebbly path; uneven terrain not suitable for wheelchairs. Northern end rocky, southern end sandy
- Dogs: Yes – no restrictions
What Else is Nearby?
Old Keiss Castle – The dramatic ruins of this 16th-century Z-plan tower house cling to the clifftops just north of the beach. An easy 8–10 minute walk along the coastal path from the car park. Not accessible up close due to the crumbling structure, but wonderful to photograph from the path.
Keiss Harbour – A picturesque working harbour built in 1831, around a 30-minute walk from the beach car park along the coast. Look out for the listed ice house and stone warehouses. You might spot creel boats heading out for crab.
Nybster Broch – One of Caithness’s most important Iron Age broch settlements, perched on a dramatic coastal promontory. Signposted off the A99 near Auckengill, just a couple of miles north of Keiss. Free to visit.
Caithness Broch Centre – Located in the old schoolhouse at Auckengill, this free museum explores the story of Caithness’s many brochs and the communities who lived in them. Open April to September. Well worth combining with a visit to Nybster Broch.
Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – One of the most spectacular castle ruins in Scotland, perched on the cliffs near Noss Head, about a 20-minute drive south towards Wick. The ancestral seat of Clan Sinclair, with a fascinating and sometimes brutal history.
Final Thoughts
Keiss Beach may not be the most famous beach in the Highlands, but that’s precisely what makes it special. There are no facilities, no ice cream vans, no crowds – just miles of golden sand, dramatic views, and a tangible sense of history etched into the very landscape. The WWII defences scattered along the dunes add a thought-provoking dimension to what is otherwise a beautifully peaceful spot.
If you’re driving the NC500 or exploring Caithness, do yourself a favour and take the short detour to Keiss. Whether you’re here for a quick leg-stretch like we were, or you want to spend a few hours walking the length of the bay, it’s a beach that will stay with you long after you’ve left.
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