Leakey's Bookshop

Written by Chris Thornton | 24th of January 2025
Leakey's Bookshop

In mid-January 2025, my wife and I entered Leakey's Bookshop in Inverness, and it felt like entering a world apart. Housed in a repurposed 17th-century church, Leakey's isn't just a bookshop—it's a celebration of stories, history, and charm.

Leakey's Bookshop signs
External signage.
 
Leakey's Bookshop street sign.
Street sign.

The moment we stepped inside, I noted the strong smell of old books mingling with the warmth of a wood-burning stove, creating an instantly inviting atmosphere. Time slows down, and before you know it, hours have slipped by as you lose yourself among the highly stacked shelves. Leakey's is more than a shop; it's an experience that left us talking about it long after we walked out the door.

Leakey's Bookshop entrance.
The entrance to the bookshop.

The Old Gaelic Church

Set in the old Gaelic Church on Church Street since 1992, the building is steeped in history. Its stone walls and tall arched windows hint at its former life. The space has been transformed into a booklover's paradise while retaining its grandeur.

Leakey's Bookshop interior.
The incredible interior of the bookshop.

Books are displayed in every possible place in this bookshop, covering all walls and levels within this old church. It's quite a feast for the eyes and has quite a magical feel, like a shop Harry Potter might visit to track down a rare spell.

The shop's centrepiece is a spiral staircase that winds its way up to the mezzanine level, offering an incredible vantage point to take in the shelves upon shelves of books below. Stained glass windows cast colourful patterns on the rows of neatly arranged spines, and the lofty ceilings create an open, airy feel despite the abundance of books. The entire space is warmed—literally and figuratively—by a roaring wood-burning stove, inviting visitors to stay just a little longer. I thought the staff member was throwing books on the stove, but thankfully, it was only firewood!

Book alcove.
One of the many alcoves, packed with books.

It's not just the physical setting that makes Leakey's unique, but the atmosphere it creates. There's a quiet hum of people flipping through pages, the soft creak of floorboards, and an unhurried sense of time. The combination of history, warmth, and books makes it a place that's almost impossible to leave empty-handed—or without feeling inspired.

Heading upstairs, I found entire sections dedicated to old prints of Inverness. I even found antique maps of my hometown of Buckie in Moray. Editions of White Dwarf magazine, one of my favourite magazines from my youth, were also found here.

White Dwarf Magazines for sale.
White Dwarf magazine from Games Workshop, one of my favourites as a child.
 
Upstairs view of the bookshop.
The upstairs view of the bookshop, note the central wood burning stove.
 
Books and spiral staircase.
The spiral staircase is the only way to the upper level.
 
Stained glass window and books.
Stained glass window behind the bookshelves.
 
Upstairs with map display area.
Part of the upstairs area with old maps and antique prints on display.

Many prints and books were marked as over 100 years old and to be handled with care. I noticed on the shop website that many rare books are for sale via AbeBooks.co.uk.

The History of Leakey's Bookshop

Established in 1979 by Charles Leakey, the shop moved to the old Gaelic Church in 1993.

Initially built in 1649, the church was a place of worship for Gaelic-only speakers for over two centuries before being repurposed. It was rebuilt in 1792 and then transformed again by architect James Smith in 1822 as Greyfriars Free Church.

After its use as a religious building, Leakey transformed it into a literary sanctuary rather than letting it fall into disrepair, giving it a new lease on life while preserving its architectural beauty.

Charles Leakey envisioned a space where books could find a second life. Today, the shop houses one of Scotland's most extensive second-hand and antiquarian books collections. Its shelves, overflowing with thousands of carefully curated volumes, reflect decades of dedication to sourcing rare, unique, and beloved titles.

The church's transformation has been so thoughtfully done that it feels as though books were always meant to fill this space. From its stained glass windows to its well-worn wooden floors, the building's historical character remains intact, adding to the charm of the bookshop.

Leakey's Bookshop upper level view. Former Gaelic church.
Another view from upstairs.

FAQs on Leakey's Bookshop

Where on Church Street is Leakey's Bookshop?

Leakey's Bookshop is found on the far north side of Church St on the west side. From Inverness's main pedestrianised shopping street, it's a short walk along Church St to arrive at this magical bookshop.

Why is Leakey's bookshop famous?

It's famous for its unique vibe. It is in an old church packed with books from floor to ceiling.

Does Leakey's Bookshop have a cafe?

No, there's no space! Space is at a premium in this incredible bookshop, with many books stacked high. There are plenty of coffee and food options nearby in central Inverness.

Is Leakey's Bookshop accessible?

When I visited, it didn't seem very accessible for wheelchair users. There are three steps at the main entrance and many steps and small levels on the ground floor. The book aisles can be quite tight. The only way to the second floor was via a spiral staircase; there was no lift. The nature of the old building likely makes this a no-go area for wheelchair users.

Upper level view. Church book store.
The bookshop is legendary in Inverness.

Key Information

  • Leakey's Bookshop sells second-hand books in the centre of Inverness, Scotland.

  • Leakey's is Scotland's largest secondhand bookshop.

  • The shop is still owned by its founder - Charles Leakey.

  • The shop is in an old church and centrally heated by a large wood-burning stove.

  • Official website: LeakeysBookshop.com.

Leakey's second hand bookshop
Books, maps and prints.

Conclusion

If you're a book lover visiting Inverness, a trip to Leakey's Bookshop is an absolute must. A unique, almost magical atmosphere here is hard to find anywhere else. Even if reading isn't usually your thing, the charm of this place might inspire you to pick up a book and discover the joy of getting lost in its pages. Who knows? It could be the start of a wonderful new habit.

All information was correct at the time of writing, please check things like entry costs and opening times before you arrive.

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