The Mermaid of the North – Scotland’s Answer to Copenhagen
Perched on a lichen-covered boulder on the shore of a quiet Easter Ross village, the Mermaid of the North is one of the most photographed sculptures in the Scottish Highlands. She sits on Clach Dubh – “Black Rock” in Gaelic – gazing back towards the village of Balintore, her bronze form turned a striking verdigris green by years of salt air and Highland weather. At high tide, the water rises to cover her tail, making her look as though she’s just emerged from the Moray Firth. At low tide, the full extent of her rocky throne is revealed, surrounded by seaweed-covered rocks and tidal pools. It’s a magical spot, and one that drew our whole family in on a summer visit to Easter Ross.
The History of the Mermaid of the North
The Mermaid of the North was originally created in 2007 by local artist Steve Hayward from the neighbouring village of Hilton. The sculpture was commissioned to mark the Highland Year of Culture and forms part of the Seaboard Sculpture Trail – a collection of five public artworks celebrating the heritage of the three Seaboard Villages: Balintore, Hilton and Shandwick.
That first mermaid was crafted from wood and resin and stood around 10 feet tall. She quickly became a beloved local landmark and a significant draw for tourists passing through Easter Ross. Sadly, in 2012, a severe storm battered the coastline and the original sculpture was badly damaged. The wood and resin simply weren’t strong enough to withstand the ferocity of the Highland weather.
Such was the community’s affection for their mermaid that fundraising began almost immediately. With the help of a grant from SSE, a new bronze cast was commissioned from Black Isle Bronze, and in the summer of 2014 an identical replacement was installed on Clach Dubh. This time, cast in bronze, she was built to last.
The Folklore Behind the Mermaid
The sculpture isn’t just a pretty face – she’s rooted in local legend. The tale, as told by Mrs Dolly Macdonald of Hilton, goes that a fisherman once captured a beautiful mermaid and took her as his wife, hiding her tail so she couldn’t return to the sea. Years passed, and the mermaid bore his children. But one day, she found her hidden tail and escaped back into the waves. The story doesn’t end there, though – she returned regularly to the shore to bring fish to her hungry children.
It’s a tale that speaks to the deep connection between these coastal communities and the sea, a relationship that has defined life in the Seaboard Villages for centuries. You’ll notice that the mermaid faces towards the village rather than out to sea – the reason being, according to local tradition, that if she looked out to sea the fishermen might catch her eye and become distracted from their work.
The Seaboard Sculpture Trail
The Mermaid of the North represents “Folklore” – one of five themes explored by the Seaboard Sculpture Trail. The other four are Faith, Fishing, Fortitude and the Four Corners of the Earth. Each sculpture tells a different story about the character and history of these three small villages.
The “Fishing” theme is represented by three giant salmon, also sculpted by Steve Hayward, which stand on a bed of slate chips near the Seaboard Centre. “Faith” is marked by a plaque commemorating the Reverend John Ross, a Balintore man who sailed to China in 1872 as a missionary and went on to translate the Bible into Korean. “Fortitude” takes the form of Effie of the Two Oars, depicting a local woman who single-handedly rowed a fishing boat home after the men abandoned it to avoid the press gang. Finally, “Four Corners of the Earth” features a compass rose set into the ground, marking the journeys of the many villagers who emigrated across the globe.
Our Visit to the Mermaid of the North
Getting There
We visited Balintore on a July day with my wife Janette and our three daughters, Ellie, Olivia and Lauren. We’d been exploring Easter Ross and the Mermaid of the North had been on our list for a while. Balintore is one of the three Seaboard Villages – along with Hilton and Shandwick – sitting on the eastern coastline of the Tarbat Peninsula, about 10 miles southeast of Tain.
We parked in the free car park directly across from the Seaboard Centre, which is well signposted as “Mermaid of the North parking.” There’s plenty of space and it’s all free, which is always a bonus. The Seaboard Centre itself was closed when we arrived, but the public toilets next to it were open – handy when you’ve got three children in the car.
Walking to the Mermaid
From the car park, it’s a short walk of around 300 yards along the sculpture trail path to reach the mermaid. Along the way you’ll pass the giant salmon and the other trail sculptures, which are worth stopping to look at. The girls were intrigued by the salmon in particular – they’re impressively large and beautifully crafted.
The path takes you down towards the shore, and the mermaid comes into view sitting on her rock out on the beach. We visited at low tide, which meant we could walk right out across the rocks to get up close. The foreshore is a mix of pebbles, seaweed-covered rocks and tidal pools, so sturdy footwear is a good idea – it can be slippery underfoot. The girls had no trouble picking their way across, but it’s worth being careful, especially with younger children.
Up Close with the Mermaid
Standing next to the mermaid, you really appreciate the scale of the sculpture. At around 10 feet tall, she’s an impressive presence on her rock. The bronze has developed a beautiful green patina over the years, giving her an almost otherworldly appearance against the browns and oranges of the lichen-covered boulder beneath her. Close up, you can see the detail in her flowing hair and the expression on her face – she has a calm, almost wistful look, as if she’s watching and waiting for something.
The setting is wonderful. Behind the mermaid, the Moray Firth stretches away towards the distant hills of Sutherland and Caithness. On a clear day, you can see right across the water. It’s a peaceful spot, and we spent a good while just taking it all in, snapping photos from different angles and letting the girls explore the rock pools around the base of Clach Dubh.
Naturally, a family photo with the mermaid was compulsory. Janette and the girls posed in front of Clach Dubh, and I have to say it makes for a cracking photograph. The mermaid looming above with the sea behind – it’s one of those shots that perfectly captures a summer day out in the Highlands.
One thing to bear in mind is the tide. At high tide, the water rises significantly around Clach Dubh – the tidal range here can be over 10 feet – and you won’t be able to get as close to the mermaid. That said, seeing her with the water lapping around her tail is arguably even more atmospheric. If you want to walk right up to her, check the tide times before you go and aim for low tide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there an entry fee to see the Mermaid of the North?
No, the Mermaid of the North is completely free to visit. She sits on the public shoreline and is accessible at any time of day or night.
Where do I park for the Mermaid of the North?
There is a free car park at the Seaboard Centre on East Street in Balintore, signposted as “Mermaid of the North parking.” From there, it’s a short walk of around 300 yards along the sculpture trail to reach the mermaid.
Can I visit the Mermaid of the North at high tide?
You can see the mermaid at any tide, but at high tide the water rises around Clach Dubh and covers her tail, so you won’t be able to walk right up to her. For the best experience and photo opportunities, visiting at low tide is recommended. Check tide times for the Moray Firth before your visit.
Is the Mermaid of the North accessible for wheelchairs or pushchairs?
The walk from the car park along the sculpture trail is relatively flat and manageable. However, to get close to the mermaid itself you need to cross a pebble and rock foreshore, which is uneven and can be slippery. The mermaid can be viewed and photographed from the path above the shore without needing to cross the rocks.
Are dogs allowed at the Mermaid of the North?
Yes, dogs are welcome. The shore and sculpture trail are public areas with no restrictions on dogs. Just keep them on a lead near the road and be mindful of wildlife along the shore.
Are there toilets and a café nearby?
Public toilets are located next to the Seaboard Centre and are generally accessible even when the centre itself is closed. The Seaboard Centre has a café and small gift shop, but opening hours can vary – the centre is typically open Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 3pm, though it can sometimes be closed for private events at weekends.
Is the Mermaid of the North on the North Coast 500 route?
Balintore isn’t directly on the NC500 route, but it’s a very worthwhile short detour from the A9 between Tain and the Dornoch Firth. Many NC500 travellers make the diversion to visit the mermaid and the Seaboard Villages.
Key Information
- Location: Balintore, Tain, Easter Ross, IV20 1UA
- Grid Reference: NH 8648 7571
- GPS: 57.75741, -3.90615
- Managed by: Seaboard Centre / Community
- Entry: Free
- Parking: Free car park at the Seaboard Centre
- Facilities: Public toilets, café and gift shop at the Seaboard Centre (limited opening hours)
- Accessibility: Trail path is relatively flat; foreshore is uneven and rocky
- Dogs: Yes, welcome
What Else is Nearby?
Seaboard Sculpture Trail – You’ll walk through part of it on the way to the mermaid, but it’s worth taking the time to explore all five sculptures. The giant salmon and the Effie of the Two Oars sculpture are particular highlights.
Shandwick Stone – Just a short drive south to the neighbouring village of Shandwick, this magnificent Pictish cross-slab dates from around AD 780 and stands almost three metres high in a glass-enclosed shelter overlooking the sea. One of the finest surviving Pictish stones in Scotland.
Hilton of Cadboll Stone – Head north to Hilton to see the impressive replica of this famous Pictish stone, carved by Barry Grove and standing on the site of the original. The original base is on display inside the Seaboard Centre.
Tarbat Discovery Centre, Portmahomack – About five miles north, this excellent heritage centre sits on the site of the only known early Christian monastery in eastern Scotland. A fascinating deep dive into Pictish history.
Tarbat Ness Lighthouse – Continue north to the tip of the Tarbat Peninsula for this striking red-and-white striped lighthouse. The walk out to the point offers superb views across the Moray Firth and Dornoch Firth, and it’s a great spot for dolphin watching.
Final Thoughts
The Mermaid of the North is one of those places that exceeds expectations. What could easily be dismissed as “just a statue” turns out to be something genuinely special – the combination of the beautiful sculpture, the folklore behind it, the ever-changing tidal setting and the peaceful beauty of Balintore makes it a memorable stop. The girls loved it, and it’s the kind of place where you end up spending longer than you planned, wandering the rock pools and soaking in the atmosphere. If you’re anywhere in Easter Ross or passing through on the NC500, it’s well worth the short detour. Scotland’s answer to Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid – and in my opinion, the better setting by far.
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